Chef JuanMa Calderon’s Peruvian version of the South American stew is simple, comforting, and delicious
In Lima, it’s not likely that you’ll see locro — a stew of squash, potatoes, and corn — on a restaurant menu, says JuanMa Calderon, the chef and co-owner of the Boston-area restaurants Celeste and La Royal. It’s cheap and simple, something your mom might prepare.
But locro is on the menu at Celeste, which opened in 2018 to rave reviews: Eater Boston and Esquire considered it among the best restaurants of the year. Non-Peruvian diners, who make up most of the restaurant’s clientele, tend to order the locro because it’s a vegetarian option (though you can order fried fish with it). “But when a Peruvian comes to the restaurant and they see it on the menu, they’re kind of nostalgic,” Calderon says.
Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador, and Peru all have their own … Read more