An acclaimed London restaurant regains its former standing
Today, the Michelin Guide announced its 2023 awards for Great Britain and Ireland, returning to its pre-pandemic format of an in-person ceremony also streamed online. While no restaurants in the region were newly awarded three stars this year, all of the guide’s eight three-star restaurants — including London’s Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Core by Clare Smyth — maintained their distinction, unlike recent upsets in France and the United States.
There was more movement in the two-star category. Chef Brett Graham’s London-based the Ledbury, which closed in 2020 as a two-Michelin-star restaurant and then reopened last year, regained its former standing. Ceremony host Amanda Stretton called it a “welcome return to the London scene,” citing that the Ledbury displayed “perfect technique and balance.”
Joining the Ledbury as new additions to the two-star category are Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal in London — which Eater London once described as offering “all things fine, fancy, and flash” — and chef Ahmet Dede’s Turkish-inflected Dede in Baltimore, Ireland.
Michelin added 20 restaurants to the one star category, including Cycene, Taku, and Luca in London. Across the regions, four restaurants gained recognition for their sustainability efforts as part of Michelin’s green star awards.
Today’s news follows the addition of 20 new restaurants to Michelin’s value-focused Bib Gourmand category last week. In a statement, Michelin’s international director Gwendal Poullennec acknowledged the success of these restaurants in finding “inventive ways to create affordable menus and keep costs down for their guests” amid rising day-to-day costs.
The full list of winners can be found on Michelin’s website.